When it comes to fake meat, it’s all about the fat

World

When it comes to fake meat, it’s all about the fat

Breakthrough means that plant-based substitutes will at last genuinely taste like the real thing

Silke Koltrowitz

At flavour maker Givaudan’s innovation centre near Zurich in Switzerland, veteran chef Sam Brunschweiler serves a lamb shawarma dish that looks and tastes appropriately meaty, but is made from pea protein.

The Swiss company and competitors such as International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) and Symrise are vying to create the tastiest plant-based meat alternatives in a market that is growing fast on the back of consumer concerns about health, sustainability and animal welfare.

“A pea tastes like a pea. You put it in a burger, it’s not exactly what you would expect,” Givaudan’s head of savoury flavours, Flavio Garofalo, said...

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