It’s not all sunshine and rosés in the world of pink wines
The days of a low price ceiling are over as winemakers go premium
With more than a whiff of spring in the air, it is almost mandatory to gather up a bunch of rosés to see if this booming segment of the wine market is achieving its results because we like the idea of drinking rosé or because the wines are worth drinking.
This is not as simple a question as it appears to be: there is a qualitative difference between well-made wines that can be enjoyed as long as you are not paying much attention, and those that offer the layering and intricacy of a more complex beverage.
A great rosé is not the easiest wine to make. A friend, who is now a very well-known author, told me that when he was poverty-stricken and sitting in his garret, he thought he would produce a few Mills & Boon titles to pay the rent. His manuscripts were always rejected. Finally the commissioning editor explained the problem. He told him it was clear from the texts he had submitted that he had no respect for his readers. You can’t, he said, be cynical and snide and win over your audience...