Wine’s holy grape: the balance between stock continuity and ...

Lifestyle

Wine’s holy grape: the balance between stock continuity and terroir

Larger estates with lower per bottle prices are the elusive middle ground

Michael Fridjhon

Producers naturally sing from their hymn sheets: if you are in the volume wine business you praise the importance of stock continuity; if your grapes come from your own vineyards you present site or terroir as the defining feature of fine wine. Between these two positions it sometimes appears as if there is an unbridgeable chasm.

In Burgundy, which is the ultimate patchwork quilt of single-site claims, a distance of 10m can translate into a fivefold increase (or decrease) in the price of a bottle.

Bordeaux is home to great estates. Three of the five First Growths share the same area of origin (Pauillac). However, even if he wanted to, the cellar master at Chateau Latour could not make wines taste anything like those of Chateau Lafite Rothschild...

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