Paris men’s wear week fashions the new normal
Don’t let lockdown put a damper on your style. Take some notes from this season’s collections
Adjusting to the new norm of comfort and ease, Paris Men’s Fashion Week came to a thrilling close that ushered in the first batch of this year’s phygital shows. Nothing short of innovation for houses such as Prada, which hosted a virtual Q&A, with designers embracing and rethinking how to best host events at a time when everyone is expected to watch from the comfort of their homes. With bath robes and comfy sweaters a somewhat new staple, here is a look at the top trends of the season.
While robes and jackets are no strangers to an autumn collection, this season designers looked to flowy pieces accompanied by less form-fitting trousers and tops. This was especially the case for Rick Owens and Etro, whose show was dominated by larger-than-life coats and ponchos. The Y/Project collection, with pieces designed to change shape with every movement, included deconstructed shirts, balloon trousers and plenty of layering that billowed down the runway.
With autumn in SA rolling in, gents might want to look at including striking outerwear garments. Must-haves include Jil Sander’s candy-coloured laced rain boots and over-the-top scarves, as seen at the A-Cold-Wall show. Striking prints and daring gathering were head-turners at Dries van Noten’s show, that also featured oversized jackets in pastel tones. However, it was Louis Vuitton who stole the show with an assortment of buffalo checks, cowboy belts, floor-length coats and faux furs to die for.
With Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele as a constant collaborator, it’s never a surprise to see an assortment of textures and colours at a Moschino show. After a year’s hiatus working on creating an inspirational event, Jeremy Scott delivered a collection inspired by 1940s Hollywood, with a colour story inspired by Post-impressionism. Zegna, Balenciaga and Dior weren’t short of a kaleidoscope of bold ensembles and pieces, while the Fendi collection included an array of neon-inspired ensembles and puffer jackets.
Perhaps answering the call for functionality at a time when style has become a much-critiqued luxury, pockets were all the rage this season. While they are certainly commonplace in men’s wear, the likes of Prada featured them in unexpected places, including the back of a glove where knuckle straps would be expected.
Their bulbous shape and ergonomic design often make for comfortable shoe options, with this season’s collections proving one can easily switch from work to play, much like any chucks or trainers. Abloh has always looked to streetwear for inspiration, but took it uptown by pairing footwear with slim-fitting ensembles and an unexpected long kilt.
Now here is an item that ought to be a staple in our wardrobes. With less being a whole lot more during lockdown, the shirt jacket compliments just about any style. Hermès and Isabel Marant featured these in mostly plaid prints for a casual look when paired with open-neck shirts and street cool with bucket hats.