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No more seeing red: it’s time for nights of white slurping


No more seeing red: it’s time for nights of white slurping

Apart from riesling, there is nothing to displace chardonnay from the apex of the white-wine pyramid

Michael Fridjhon

It’s been a real winter: longer and more relentless than usual, with cold spells more reminiscent of the 1970s than the past few decades of global warming. Covid-19 and lockdown added a bite to the winter chill, a kind of forced hibernation of the kind our ancestors would have known only too well: nowhere to go and nothing to forage.       

Especially not wine. The puritans of the National Coronavirus Command Council (NCCC) made sure things would be as bleak for the citizens as they were lucrative for their own well-connected cadres. By the time the alcohol ban was lifted, cellars were empty, while the bootleggers’ bank accounts were full. Now is the time to stock up, before the Queen of the Zol and her cronies contrive another excuse to drive their non-Covid agenda under cover of the Disaster Management Act.

With the change of season, white wine again takes centre stage. This isn’t an absolute rule, merely a statistical certainty. So it may be wise to defer replenishing the reds which gave you comfort through the long nights of lockdown and instead make sure you have some decent whites to see you to the solstice and beyond...

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