Puff piece: Let’s bring back the bulging, billowing souffle
Contrary to popular belief, making one of these light French delights is not as difficult as you may think
Souffle is not a word seen frequently on restaurant menus any more. Souffles demand a bigger time commitment from modern diners than we’re generally willing to hand over. They’re also not making regular appearances at dinner parties or homely suppers.
There’s the time factor again, plus there are newer, groovier recipes doing the rounds. And then, of course, the fear factor doesn’t help: we’ve been told all our lives (if souffles feature in one’s life) that they’re so dauntingly delicate and disobedient that failure is almost guaranteed.
My mother was a keen and successful souffle maker, and I was spoilt enough to grow up with a regular supply of sorrel, cheese, spinach, lemon and orange versions. Yet I still retained the fear. It’s all a bit sad. Restaurants probably won’t resuscitate them, so I think a home revival is in order. ..