Show and tell: Eight trends you can rock from the spring/summer catwalks
And wear now in the SA heat
You might just be getting your head around the fact that it’s party season and at some point in the near future you might find yourself with a glittery smokey eye and draped in velvet. Do it. But also, with the sales twinkling on the horizon, it’s always helpful to have an eye on what might be useful purchases for this season and beyond. See below for the keenest trends to emerge from the spring/summer show season – and what we’re backing for your summer wardrobe.
A uniformed approach
If you’re choking at the thought of sequins, why not take that pared-back attitude into a more utilitarian sartorial mood. Clean lines with a shot of oversized insouciance prevailed: See prominent, helpful pockets on everything from shirts to skirts at Fendi, while the cargo trouser got a haute update at Givenchy, worn with a tuxedo jacket – very James Bond meets Action Man.
JW Anderson crafted all manner of piratical looking worker women – see the cargo skirt for one. But it is the boiler suit that has emerged as the strongest method to do this trend in a modern way. Think of it as an evolution of your jumpsuit, a one-stop solution to instant cool. My favourite was at Jil Sander, but Stella McCartney and Isabel Marant also had sweet versions.
Smart casual 2.0
I bring news of leggings. And for the very keen, cycling shorts. And other, wider short iterations. I’m not sure how successful knee-exposers will be, but my money is on the legging to make a stealth comeback.
The new way to wear it is as one would any sort of black office-bound trouser. Add a long line blazer – boxier cut the better – with an oversized T-shirt underneath for full Chanel points. But I’d also look to Victoria Beckham – her skinny gold trouser and white jacket combination is pretty strong, and Tibi’s languid tailored short-suits are very tempting.
Get the bleach out
For me, a child of the 80s, the Proenza Schouler show was a dream situation of tie-dyed and bleached – bleached! – denim pieces with a heavy hit of the label’s NYC cool.
I loved it. But I appreciate that you may feel differently. However, when that sun comes out blistering, I think you may turn your head a little ... May I draw your attention to Dior’s excellent denim jacket, and Celine’s full-on Roseanne circa 1989 Mom jean. If its all a bit much, then see Miu Miu which took on denim in a grown-up grunge way: Its sectioned up midi dresses were particularly good.
Heading on from white-out denim (I know), surf culture has taken hold in a way that millennials will be all over (especially Chloe’s zingy logo tie-dyed T-shirt).
At Calvin Klein, Raf Simons presented his wet-look, high-fashion interpretation of movie classic Jaws (hunt down that vintage merch now on Ebay); Sport Max took its name to heart and had surfsuit-inspired outfits, complete with “I can’t be arsed to wear my shoes” belts dangling with sandals. There were also beaded anklets, but that’s not something I personally can support on any level. If you’re in the market for what to drape over oneself as you sit around the campfire exchanging stories of meaningful reflection, then see Etro, which had some rather excellent, exuberant poncho styles.
I don’t know what the collective term for feeling beiged out is, but if you are the type to demand a definitive Pantone-approved hue for your seasonal fashion picks then I’m sorry to disappoint, because it’s all a bit ... greige? Beige? Blah? Meh? More effusive types will likely emote feelings over putty and muted caramel, but my job, alas, is not to name Farrow and Ball colours ... Elephants Whisper, actually quite spot on.
These washed-out tones however are very much A Thing. I would offer that the best way to add some level of interest is to spike them up with a shot of something more direct – see Roksanda’s oatmeal-ish suit with shots of yellow underneath. But for the grown-up, serious-thinking fashion connoisseur, a head-to-toe embracing of non-colour is the fastest way to au courant chic: See Dior, Prada, Max Mara, Miu Miu and Burberry for executive pointers.
I’m with the brand
Branding has moved beyond the mere slapping on of a logo: The new stealth way to gently impress your luxury prowess on a global audience is with an insider-knowledge approach – reduce your branding to a single letter that must instantly impress its origin on the viewer. Chloe, (new) Celine and Valentino have all opted for this approach, throwing out a muscle into the competitive luxe waters. The trick is, do you know your C from your C? It’s all in the font.
Of course, if you require more obvious statements of allegiance then Riccardo Tisci’s reignited Burberry took his new Peter Saville-designed B and duplicated it all over scarfs, thrown jauntily around necks and waists.
If pallid colours really aren’t your thing then you better get saving. For the maximalist’s alternative comes with a weighty “artisanal” added to their repertoire (read: couture technique = expensive).
Within this there was a serious amount of macrame and crochet – everywhere from JW Anderson and Sonia Rykiel to Michael Kors took a view on this. There were also patchwork scarf prints – see Chloe, Loewe, sharp floral embroideries (Alexander McQueen) and giant woven raffia bags at Jacquemus, which led the charge for mega-sized accessories.
The 90s sandal is something that frankly only brings back painful memories, but either others have forgotten about this, or, depressingly likely, they weren’t there the first time around. A nothing-but-a-bit-of-floss-around-your-ankle approach to heels is rising as the shoe of the moment, thanks to Prada, Jacquemus, The Row, Proenza Schouler ... Thankfully, clumpy sandals and trainers are still very much a thing for anyone with a more sensible head on one's shoulders. For all others, good luck with that.