No matter how thick or thin your skin, care for it properly
Do it right. You'll thank yourself later
Applying skincare may seem like a no-brainer, but there is a method to the madness: how you apply your chosen products is just as important as the products themselves. The golden rules
According to skincare expert Marie Reynolds, these are the golden rules to application: Always cleanse your skin, especially at night.
Use Vitamin C in the morning and Vitamin A (retinol) at night.
Always use an SPF.
Make sure you are hydrated – not just with water. You need to be viscerally hydrated, so add a supplement powder enriched with vitamins and minerals. Consider your diet because what you put in your body will reflect on your skin.
“Remember, at night our skin regenerates and during the day we age,” advises skin expert Dr Frances Prenna Jones. “If you think like this, you are more than halfway way there to applying your skincare correctly.” What you apply in the evening is very different to what you should apply in the morning.
“After cleansing (if you are doing more than one step) then the most liquid product should go first – liquid, gel or cream,” says Prenna Jones. However, there are some exceptions. “Physical sunscreens, those that deflect the rays away from our skin, should always go last. Formulas including ingredients such as titanium and zinc oxide, otherwise known as chemical sunscreens, absorb the sun’s rays and should go on first.”
Face creams “Creams superficially create a barrier on the skin and don’t always ‘hydrate’ the skin,” says Reynolds. Look at the ingredient label and ensure the list targets your skincare woe. For example peptides are great ‘plumping’ agents but actually the molecules are too large to penetrate the dermis so they lay on the surface of the skin and are less hydrating.
Eye creams “There are some eye creams that can ‘rid’ dark circles, but dark circles are usually linked to an an internal issue or deficiency in tissue salts; it also may link to adrenal fatigue,” says Reynolds? “Eye creams can be too heavy for delicate eye tissue but some are great for the dehydrated superficial lines. Eye gels and light creams are best to use in the day and richer eye treatments can be used as an overnight eye treatment.”
“This is the ‘treatment’ stage of your regime and should be where the nourishment or supporting of a skin treatment occurs,” advises Reynolds.
“Look to serum treatments that troubleshoot your skincare woe such as ‘spot-correcting’ or ‘reduces fine lines’ to enhance your regime. Or if you just want an added boost of moisturiser, a good starting point is a hylauronic acid serum.
Prenna Jones adds: “Not everyone needs a serum and a moisturiser; serums are water-based and creams are oil-based so they will suit different skintones. Be sure to be savvy on what ingredients you are applying to your skin. However it may be that your ingredient list encourages combining a serum and moisturiser but it is not an essential step like some people say.”
Acids or actives
“Actives are necessary for change in the skin. However it is important to consider if you want to use harsh acids or actives such as retinol, as your skin may react,” advises Reynolds. It is always best to consult and doctor or dermatologist if you are considering using a strong active. There are two forms of acids, AHA and BHAs, which vary in efficacy and potency depending on your skin type.
Consider your epidermal thickness
“The skin around our eyes is the thinnest on our face,” says Prenna Jones. “When applying a face cream, if you are going to put it around the eyes, which is perfectly fine despite what some say, it should go on last. If you are using an eye cream and face cream make sure the two have been formulated to work together synergistically. The best way to ensure they do, is to check with a beauty therapist.
“I recommend applying your formula on the jawline first, then forehead, cheeks, nose, and finish with eyes. I say nose second to last as we have a high concentration of pores and glands on our nose and this means per square millimetre they will absorb more product than say your forehead.”
Why jawline? “This area needs slightly higher concentrations to treat it. If you want to treat the neck, always start from the chest and work upwards as this is how the thickness of the skin goes, thick to thinnest under chin. For eye, goes in the motion of lymph drainage, along the bone and out.”
- © The Daily Telegraph