Pip-pip and seven tips from the Big Apple’s Fashion Week


Pip-pip and seven tips from the Big Apple’s Fashion Week

The first in a jam-packed season of international style

Lisa Armstrong

Throwing around the ball (skirt)
US fashion designer Brandon Maxwell’s fashion show was a bit like taking a wander down Broadway. Tone-wise it hovered somewhere between Gypsy Rose Lee and Ivanka Trump, but the fans loved it. And amid the loud traffic and flashing lights were a couple of rather fabulous, old-school, Carolina Herrera-style ball skirts. High society?
These boots were made for all summer
We’re used to the ankle boot as a 340-day-a-year wardrobe prop, but in New York, designers have been toying with the idea of knee boots as a seasonless staple. Tibi’s were perforated leather, Carolina Herrera’s were embellished with cosmically coloured flowers. Some of the prettiest were Kate Spade’s pastels. Clash, coordinate or colour-block them with the rest of your outfit.
Ultra-feminine tailoring
US fashion company Tibi's founder and creative director Amy Smilovic tries on every piece in her collection. If it doesn’t work for real life, it won’t make it onto her catwalk. So it’s worth taking notice of her slouchy tailoring and the controlled wafty pieces designed to trail beneath it. They’ll be everywhere next season.
Layered dressing
Jackets, oversized jumpers and boots all help extend the life of a summery dress into winter, but Han Chong, founder and creative director of the ever expanding  and reasonably priced Self-Portrait, offered new options: camisoles and sheaths were shrugged over dresses, not for added insulation, but variety. It will take practice, but it’s intriguing.
Pretty Woman is chic again
With its new creative director (Irishman Niall Sloan, ex-Burberry), the Munich-based favourite of 1980s excess, Escada, made a shouty return to mark its 40th anniversary, harking back to its bold, gold-buttoned heyday. For anyone hankering for a classic romcom reference, see this pretty polka dot shift, which offers an answer to anyone pondering what Julia Roberts might wear to the polo in 2019.
A stonewash proposition
It’s never wise to declare absolutes because as much as you might think say stonewash denim will never return to your affections in any way … there you spot it underneath a perfectly proportioned blazer and rather delicious high waist, belted trousers and all of a sudden you’re thinking: “Bring me my bleach, scoop me up some gravel, I am going into the laundry room.” Thankfully Proenza Schouler are offering an easier than DIY solution (if they’ve convinced you, that is).
Well suited, 24/7
The recent past has seen Tom Ford’s trademark glamour topple into kitsch, but this time his show was a return to grown-up form, exemplified in this flawless white skirt suit and lace blouse. Sure it’s high maintenance but when the results deliver this much impact, they’re worth it.
- © The Daily Telegraph

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