Back to the garden: Paris Fashion Week picks
The best five stories told through the runway at Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week remains one of the most highly anticipated fashion weeks of the year. The shows are multisensory, taking you into the world of the designer and evoking covetous feelings in the attendees. Paris Fashion Week is the last busy showcase of the industry’s best designs to which fashion journalists and buyers flock from all over the world to experience the latest trends in high end clothing:
Tailcoats, leather bodices and textured layering tell the story of extreme nature; a metamorphosis.
Sarah Burton’s re-imagining of the tuxedo was a nod to “Le smoking” jacket by Yves Saint Laurent. Laurent was the first to offer it on the catwalks in the 1970s. It recalls many stories, the most powerful one being the tale of a woman who is aware of her strength and influence in society today. The details of Burton’s designs are also a remarkable reference to nature, with butterfly-wing patterns on dresses and striking insect embroideries. She ended her show with a faultless collection of dresses.Chanel
Chanel brought the runway to life literally with a forest theme.
The set of Chanel’s runway show was designed to capture the spirit of autumn, with tall trees and rust-coloured leaves. This scenery was reflective of the country outside Hamburg where Karl Lagerfeld spent his childhood, a memory that came back to him when he saw the set for the first time. The black, grey and beige overtones of the collection added to the nostalgic feel created by the forest backdrop. Slim silhouettes predominated, with long coats and puffer jackets with tweed detailing.Valentino
The garden of Valentino.
Pierpaolo Piccioli used huge and dramatic flower prints in his collection, almost negating their delicacy and bringing out a shape representative of boldness and strength. He said flowers are usually known as gentle and romantic, but he wanted to take away the fairytale connotations and make them appear on his clothes as something strong. Red, head to toe, made a bold statement, as did a print of an eagle’s head.Thom Browne
Celebrates the timeless marriage of art and fashion.
The greatest fashion photographs of the 1940s and 1950s were brought back to life and merged with Thom Browne’s love for construction. Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun, an 18th-century portraitist, is the inspiration behind what might be one of Browne’s most remarkable works to date. The collection is dominated by the colour grey, with each look boasting a beautifully deconstructed shape.Sacai
Constructionism at Sacai.
Deliberate mismatches, layers of different textures, a mix of patterns and an unexpected combination of colours are all the building blocks of Sacai. Chitose Abe incorporates an intelligent use of fabrics in her designs, creating looks that have never been seen before.