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It's the end of an eraA number of big name designers are throwing in the NY Fashion Week towel. Carolina Herrera presented her swan song collection this week. She announced that 31-year-old Wes Gordon will be taking over as creative director while she will become a roving global ambassador, striving to inspire women around the world with her label’s classically elegant look.
“What they like now is ugliness. Women dress in a very strange way,” the 79-year-old designer said ahead of the show, reflecting on why now was the right time to move on.
The show’s finale was an ode to Herrera’s personal style, with 20 models parading in different coloured floor-length skirts and crisp white shirts, each one with a flipped-up collar and several buttons undone: her signature look.
Welcome to Gen Z yellowIf you’ve just got your head around millennial pink (that’s the soft blush shade which has been identified as catnip to the 20- and 30-something generation, but which actually looks great on everyone) then you may feel despair when you learn that the latest buzz colour is Gen Z yellow, the favoured hue of digital-native teens.
Touted for its strikingly acidic look-at-me tone, the shade could be traced through a range of shows catering for entirely different tastes, from a ladylike coat at Carolina Herrera to a lightweight mac at Mansur Gavriel and disco-ready jumpsuit at Brandon Maxwell.
Little updates, big impactThe details get the attention, like the use of butterfly clips in the models’ hair at Alexander Wang and, at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the jangle of shell necklaces and the organic look of the matching earrings held as much appeal as the eclecticism of the clothes.
At Oscar de la Renta the oversized teardrop pearls, giant diamante spray brooches used as coat clasps and mismatched bird and serpent earrings were a hit.
To fur or not to fur?In December Gucci announced that it would be banning fur from its collections. CEO Marco Bizzarri said that it just didn’t feel “modern” any more.
That statement was taken as a challenge by some of New York’s most creative who played on their idiosyncrasies to experiment with the faux stuff.
Technology has made luxuriously soft fake fur fabric feel almost like the real thing minus the guilt. Victoria Beckham avoided the fake stuff altogether, developing a print which she worked up into skirts and dresses.
Romancing decadenceDecadence reigned on the catwalks this season. Perhaps it was all the pre-Valentine’s love in the air; maybe it was a response to recent preoccupations with how men and women interact.
“There is an ever-shifting ambiance informing the term [romance],” wrote designers Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassal of Brock Collection.
“Romance can be full of glory and theatre … or less fantastical and routine.”
It all seemed too lovely to ever take off, which may rather defeat the point.
The Time’s Up gestureThe fashion industry still seems to be grappling with its response to the #MeToo movement, both in terms of whether it affects how we think about clothes (maybe it shouldn’t?) and how it prevents further abuse, particularly of models, from happening on its watch.
One area where designers did deliver, though, was in the creation of beautiful pieces in black, the colour chosen by the Time’s Up campaign to create moments of sartorial symbolism at both the Golden Globes and this Sunday’s upcoming Bafta awards.
An ode to sailing club chicThe reigning emperor of American fashion, Ralph Lauren, steered his sailboat away from domestic shores and instead looked to his Jamaican holiday home for inspiration in a seafaring ode to the preppy off-duty dressing which made him a billionaire.
– © The Daily Telegraph