In early 2010, I was assigned to advise Iraq on the feasibility of undertaking a census. The rolling blackouts in SA and the accompanying spin doctoring resemble the tragic drama of the “Mother of all Wars”.

I witnessed the tragedy of the destruction of Iraq and its rich, ancient Mesopotamian culture and history. It was in-your-face and heart-wrenching. 

The height of my trip, despite the destruction tragedy, was going to Nejaf, a journey of 120km from Baghdad. I experienced going into a mosque for the first time in my life.  Given my Christian upbringing, I recalled Psalm 137, the Song of Exile — the River of Babylon. Into Shāhīn Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Najaf, located on the northern side of the court of Imam Ali’s shrine, I went. I then asked how I pray in a mosque as a Christian. The Imam said pray to your God anyhow.  ..